Thursday, 16 June 2016

Lens (16-06-2016)

England 2 - 1 Wales (Euro 2016 Group B), Thursday 16 June 2016

Tea £1-99
Coach travel £149
Toilet! 20p
Match ticket £42-78 [E55]
Tea on ferry £1-49
Lens provisions £5-28
Transaction fees £1-25
Tea on ferry £2-75
Burger King £5-49
Starbucks tea £2
Coke and pizza at ground £7-07 (E9 (at 0.79 per pound))

Total £219-30

‘Don’t send me home, please don’t send me home…’

I headed back to France for our second group game, in Lens, for perhaps the biggest game so far against Wales. They had done incredibly well in the run-up to the tournament, so this was going to be a tricky hurdle to overcome, even if we were favourites.

This time I booked onto a coach going all the way from Manchester to Lens. This was a smart move as it avoided any overnight accommodation costs, and also ensured some degree of safety with no need to travel through nearby Lille (where there was apparently more trouble brewing). I got talking to some fellow fans – one guy had been to several of the last few tournaments, whilst a woman on board told me how she had stayed at a game farm whilst in South Africa! There are some hardened travellers who follow England, and the national team should never forget the lengths some fans go to.

As we trundled through Birmingham, the coach filled up even more, and a few hours later we were in Dover waiting to catch a ferry at a small hour of the night. I checked the news on my phone and it seemed there had indeed been more violence in Lille. Rather foolishly, Russia’s game against Slovakia was held there, just a few miles away from England’s game.


On the ferry across, fans were having early cooked breakfasts, and as we approached the French shoreline, the sun began to rise. It was a peaceful start to what could be an eventful day. Lens is not far at all from Calais so we arrived there at about 8am in the morning. After having my 2 complimentary drinks (both Coca Cola I hasten to add!) I explored Lens, where I had identified several possible grounds to find. Although technically a city, Lens felt more like a large town, roughly akin to Northampton, Burnley or somewhere similar. 

My exploration brought me back to the main stadium, where by now it was pelting it down. Unfortunately I had no effective waterproof other than a cycling jacket so ended up waiting in a portaloo for the downpour to subside! After a stroll through the centre, where fans were out in force now, I circled back to the ground. This felt like a Premier League derby – there was a great atmosphere but no violence or unpleasantness (yet!).

I arrived in plenty of time for the obligatory photos. I was in the England end behind the goal, directly opposite the huge (red) Welsh contingent at the far end. This was another special ground as it was where we had beaten Columbia 2-0 in France ’98, though it is much changed since that year. The ground was a real contrast to Marseille – here there were 4 distinct stands, much like an English ground in the Premier League or Championship.


England started poorly in this one. We did not really create much and looked a bit ropey in midfield. As with that period in the Russia game, passes were going astray and there was no end product on many moves. Wales, on the other hand, held their shape brilliantly, and had two stand-out performers in Joe Ledley and Gareth Bale. Then on 42 minutes, Rooney gave away a free-kick at our end. Surely this was too far out? Not when Bale is in town. He hit a precise curling shot which dipped over the wall and towards the bottom corner. Hart had his hand on it, and probably should have done better, but couldn’t keep it out. 1-0 Wales, and the jeers rang out “England’s going home, you’re going home” at half-time.

It was all on the line now. We had gone from looking at a comfortable win against Russia to now facing an early tournament exit without a win. The margins are so fine in this game. Hodgson, to his credit, made an excellent double substitution at the break. Vardy and Sturridge replaced Kane and Sterling. The latter pair looked exhausted and jaded so it was time for a change. Now we looked better than Wales, and began to attack with more verve and confidence. Vardy, as an archetypal English striker, was the spearhead of many attacks, whilst Sturridge was sitting a bit deeper, using his finesse to dictate the forward play. Vardy had a quick impact, smashing in the equaliser at our end after Ashley Williams accidentally nudged the ball back to goal. It was a poacher’s goal but they all count. In between the action on the pitch, I was having a good chat with a couple of older fans from the Midlands, explaining how we needed to increase out shots to increase our percentage chance – one bloke next to me said ‘I don't really care about percentages or stats. All I know is that we need shots on target and then we’ll score!’

For the next half an hour we continued to pour forward, but to no avail. Rashford’s introduction as a pacey substitute further ignited the England attack. We could smell blood from the Welsh, who had few options on the bench beyond their first 11. Just when it seemed that another promising game might end in a draw, Sturridge picked up the ball on the left of the box and wriggled elegantly past the defence before sliding a perfectly timed shot past Wayne Hennessey. The crowd went crazy, and we were singing ‘Don’t send me home’ in between hugging and jumping over the seats. The final whistle went and the celebrations continued – what a result! 


I headed back to the coach parked up in the centre, and after a long queue for a busy ferry we made our way back home. On the ferry home I had an optimistic feeling that I may be back in France next weekend for a last-16 game in Paris. 

After a late-night ferry and a coach ride through the night, we arrived back in Manchester at 3am in the morning. I found a fast food chain (one not full of drunks fortunately!) and then headed back to Sheffield on the first train. I arrived home dishevelled, smelly, and exhausted but at the same time utterly elated with the trip.

Despite my optimism about a trip to Paris (for either the QF or last-16 match), Wales was my second and final game at the Euros. I gave Slovakia a miss and then couldn’t realistically make the Iceland game in Nice due to annual leave and costs. Somehow England had contrived to ruin what could have been such a great tournament for them and the fans. Whilst I was disappointed to have not seen any more games, on reflection it is good that my Euro 2016 ended on some kind of a high – albeit a premature one. 



Saturday, 11 June 2016

Marseille (11-06-2016)

England 1 - 1 Russia (Euro 2016 Group B), Saturday 11 June 2016

Pounds £317-16
Train (Manchester-Airport) £9-90
Hostel in Geneva £26-46
Provisions in Geneva £8-09
Transaction fee £5
Train (Marseille-Septemes) £5-97
Train (Marseille-Septemes) £2-99
Plane (Manchester-Geneva) £97-98
Train (Geneva-Marseille) £76-25
Provisions at Manchester Picc. £2-85
Match ticket £81-67 (E105)

Euros 122-30 (£96-04)
Hotel F1 E63
Toothbrush E4-90
Pizza E13
Programme E10
Beer E6-50
Water E1
Provisions at Marseille station E9
Provisions at Geneva Airport E14-90

Total £413-20

He had a shifty look about him, a glint in his eyes. Without hesitation or pause for thought, he smiled and said 'Thirty euros'. It was 2004, and I was outside the Stade de Velodrome in Marseille, seeking out a decent photo and he had cheekily approached me offering to take my picture with the ground. I declined the offer firmly and went on my way.

Fast forward 12 years and I was back in Marseille for England's Euro 2016 opener vs Russia. It's been a long and winding road to the Euros for me and England, starting in a pit of despair after Brazil 2014, and now riding a wave of hope and optimism into the tournament.


On Friday night I flew out to Geneva, before setting off early on Saturday morning to Lyon. From there I caught the TGV down to Marseille, arriving just after midday. The station was palatial, buzzing with excitement and different national colours. Before catching a train out to my hotel on the outskirts, I surveyed the scene outside the station. The station is elevated above the city, almost a viewing platform - to my left I could see straight down a long boulevard, while in the distance you could see the castle, and the glistening Mediterranean Sea. After locating the hotel (11 miles away!) and coming back in I headed to the ground. Given the reports of trouble in the centre I completely avoided Vieux Port, walking in the opposite direction as 7-8 police vans which went flying past. Dinner consisted of a magnificent cheese pizza from a roadside stall, where my French was just sufficient to order what I wanted.

                        

As I got closer to the ground the crowds began to gather. On both sides of the dual carriage way near the ground, England fans were gathered outside bars. Flags of all manner of clubs were on show and chants rang around the streets.

I reached the entrance to the stadium across the back of a car park, practically circumnavigating the ground completely. As I expected security was tight - I had to go through 2 lines of security before the turnstile and had to surrender my bag at a portakabin. I ended up carrying my wallet, phone and ticket by hand as my shorts had no pockets!

I was nice and early and had a few photos of the ground, before watching the last few minutes of Wales-Slovakia on the big screen. As the ground began to fill the atmosphere rose. This was going to be special - not only was this the opening game of our tournament, but this recalled our game in 1998 against Tunisia, when Scholes had scored the winner in the same ground.

The match had been described as a 'powder keg' tie and that felt about right as the songs streamed across the ground. Three Lions and God Save The Queen were belted out, while the Russian team announcement was drowned out by the vociferous English support.

The game began well for England and the first half saw us building some great attacking moves and grab hold of the game. Rooney in particular was excellent in the middle of the park, orchestrating many moves, though none quite resulted in a clear-cut chance. So to half-time, and the sky was now dark. I stayed pitch side but regretted it later on when I became incredibly thirsty in what was still a pretty hot climate.

The second half kicked off and I believed that if we continued in the same vein, we would have a first opening match victory in the Euros. But the lack of goals was clearly getting to the players, and gradually passes started falling astray and our focus started wavering. Then – at our end of the ground – we won a free kick some distance out. Eric Dier stepped up and drove it into the top corner to take the lead on the 73rd minute – we had looked a bit ropey for the period up to then but overall we were well worth the lead. Surely we would take the win now?

It was certainly too good to be true. After taking the lead, Rooney was replaced with Jack Wilshere, whose selection in the squad was mystifying to say the least. The substitution took away England’s momentum, and we began to coast rather than seek out the killer second. 90 minutes approached and the thought crossed my mind that a win here would put us on a good path to the semi-finals (in fact avoiding another trip here). But this is England and with 2 minutes of injury time played, Berezutski planted a header past Hart, who had barely had a save to make all game. The reaction in our end wasn’t quite despondent, as a draw was still a half-decent result, but there was a certain disappointment that we hadn’t quite hung on.



As we applauded the players off for a decent performance, drama ensued at the other end of the ground. Hordes of Russian fans were storming into the England section, and many England fans were climbing out of one stand and into the other. A disapproving boo rang out in our end of the ground. It had been something of a bitter-sweet start to the tournament. The tense and sometimes violent atmosphere and the result meant this wasn’t the outcome we wanted. Outside the ground afterwards, chaos ensued at the baggage portakabins, where no-one had a clue how to retrieve bags for the fans. After about half an hour waiting I headed off into the centre and back to the hotel via a 12-mile walk. I was not taking the risk of sticking around in the centre to see what else might unfold in the maelstrom of Marseille.